7 Ways To Upgrade Your Home Defense Using Booby Traps
Some see the subject of booby traps as taboo. They are mostly those who have been affected by politicians who seek to control the population by controlling the information they access. They do this through fear, suggestion and threat of force.
But I do not believe that the proliferation of information will endanger the good guys. Our society has mechanisms to protect us, chief among them, is the classification of information. I would never pass along classified information, but a far greater threat endangers the average person: ignorance.
The enemies of the common man study and understand booby traps and employ them freely, not just in war. Criminals regularly set booby traps and regular folks stumble into them on the job or in recreational pursuits. Informing regular people about technologies that may be used against them makes them safer as opposed to endangering them.
Among the many hats I have worn, I managed a class A high explosives magazine, hold instructor certifications for a great deal or HE ordnance and have worked both in R&D and in instruction of HE breaching, dynamic entry and EOD. So perhaps a curiosity for things that go boom worked out OK for me, as it lead to me working for the good guys.
Why Should You Learn to Set Booby Traps?
Learning from previous and current military campaigns, when we have sent expeditionary forces into areas where booby traps are used, as many as 65%-75% of casualties they take are caused by booby traps, mines and IEDs, initially. Once troops have had time to become aware of the threat adapt their strategy, tactics and training, this number fell to around 48% … which is still huge! Even trained military personnel have a hard time avoiding booby traps even when aware they are being used.
Why ignore a technology that inflicts more than half of all casualties? It would be a fool’s errand for the average prepper, survival group or guerrilla campaign to stand toe to toe against a well-armed and trained modern military force of any size. Booby traps give a numerically inferior and under-equipped force a tool to inflict casualties while avoiding direct contact with superior enemy forces. This is especially useful in areas the enemy controls much of the time.
Even rumors of or the appearance of the existence of mines, booby traps or IED’s will often inflict significant psychological effects. This is true whether it be a small group trying to gauge whether or not it is worth the risk to loot or plan a home invasion, or enemy combatants. Suspecting booby traps in an area drastically changes SOP, planning, movement and morale because it will:
- Deny access to key terrain objectives,
- Degrade morale, crushing the enemies resolve and instilling fear in their ranks,
- Slow movement, causing the enemy to slow movement or leave lines of drift altogether,
- Rob the enemy of the element of surprise,
- Buy time to escape or prepare defenses,
- Can be very inexpensive,
- Can be very low tech and improvised largely from resources in your environment,
- Reveal enemy positions, patrols, ambushes, strategy and tactics,
- Avoid direct contact with superior enemy forces,
- They do not have to be lethal to be effective. Less-lethal booby traps will not kill your own people if they slip up, but still serve as a deterrent.
- Inflict casualties, especially of a magnitude decreases unit combat effectiveness. When fighting groups of enemies, it is more effective to cause inflict casualties who need to transported to rear areas, removing multiple litter bearers from battle and requiring substantial treatment, care and medical supplies to treat.
I cannot possibly stress this enough. Booby traps are inherently dangerous. You must follow strict methodology just as with any potentially deadly weapon. Learn from professionals. Do not rely solely on internet articles, books or videos, even if they are created by trained professionals. No one can possibly teach you everything you need to know about this subject in an article.
If you decide to learn this craft, your personal safety is up to you and no one else. The last thing you want to do is to injure or kill yourself or someone you are trying to protect in an attempt to make them safe. Booby traps in peace time have injured first responders responding to structure fires and similar calls, so use good judgement.
They can also kill or injure pets or livestock or be set off by any animal passing through.
It is also up to you to comply with any laws you are subject to. Not all booby traps are lethal, but many types of booby traps and components are strictly regulated relative to licensing of manufacture storage, transport, transfer and use, even less-lethal ones.
Believe me, it is a headache. Learn the law. It is in your best interest to abide by it. You would have a heck of a time trying to convince a judge that setting potentially dangerous or lethal booby traps to prevent theft during peace time passes the reasonable person test.
Preparation is a double edged sword. Gathering and preparing components ahead of time could lead to their discovery. Future dependent, this could result in some jackbooted thugs shooting you on the spot or charging you with something. If you must gather and prepare components:
- Cache them someplace they will not be discovered or linked to you … or
- Store multi-use items and booby trap components separate from each other and in proximity to unrelated items that constitute a reason to have them. Most well stocked homes have ample material to construct booby traps, but gathering them all together in one pouch or spot makes it simpler for snoops to make associations, i.e. model rocketry motor “starters” with a bunch of model rocketry stuff are far from criminal. But next to a bunch of propellant, shrapnel, fuel, casings, wire, batteries, electrical tape, caulk, tools, etc. and you’re going to raise some eyebrows. It’s all about context.
In urban areas, camouflage is usually covert in nature. In the bush, the types of overt camouflage that most people traditionally thing of as camouflage tend to be more useful. Either way, it is less-effective for your enemy to discover the booby trap before he trips it.
Learning to effectively deploy traps for other humans requires study, a devious creativity and loads and loads of dirt time practicing the art. Learning what colors to use in a particular environment and lighting, where to place wires and triggers in the target’s depth and field of vision and what sorts of things will draw his gaze away from what you do not want him to see, all take time and experience to learn to employ effectively.
5. Less Is More
The more apparatus you have to install and the more you disturb the environment, the more likely it is that your trap will be spotted, especially by counter-trackers. But the enemy can’t spot what isn’t there, so keep traps small where possible.
Make sure your group knows where the traps are, where they are not, and what the capabilities of each trap is.
In addition to being tripped by the target (or anyone else who stumbles onto them) triggers can be triggered electrically, electronically, remotely or on command detonation.
This technique involves placing spore or items of interest that will attract and distract your prey and are effective when used against someone with an established routine, but are less so against someone who suspects the tactics. Employing them effectively is predicated on knowing your enemy, his routines, training and SOP.
This technique works great with animals and untrained individuals, but you may have to go to some effort in order for it to not give away your trap to someone trained in the tactic. Anyone with any training will take extra care at road or trail junctions, bridges, fords, gates, choke points, caves or hallways where they know booby traps are likely to be set.
So, if you use typical terrain features, you had better set it just right and have a little luck on your side or your booby trap will get spotted.
10. Lines of Drift
With people, stick to points of destination, objects that get used as part of a routine and lines of drift, similar to how lines of drift are used to set ambushes. When people travel long distances, they rarely leave lines of drift. People get fatigued when traveling long distances, especially while carrying heavy loads. Fatigue leads to soft compromise, soft compromise lead to hard compromise, hard compromise often results in taking casualties or loss of life.
Maintain a 15 meter interval between individual when walking. This way if a booby trap is tripped, you will take fewer casualties. If you trip one, drop prone with the soles of your boots facing the trap to minimize injury if possible. Depending on the fuze they used, there may be enough time
Educating yourself and staying alert are your best defenses against booby traps. If your pack is too heavy, you risk becoming a heat casualty or suffering exhaustion. Exhaustion leads to the cycle of compromise explained above.
My advice on staying alert involves rejecting gear-heavy, logistics-dependent models that have you carrying a 120 Lbs. pack. The US Infantry model involves a huge logistics infrastructure of several people in the supply chain for every person in the field. Few preppers can afford to replicate it in any meaningful way. It might work OK for a nation, but infantry squads do not have wives, grandma and a two-year old in tow to worry about. Stick the average prepper in that model and it breaks down in a hurry. Learn the skills, reject the model.
Adopt a less-fragile, more primitive, tribal model. Learn skills so you do not need as much equipment. When traveling, most tribes separate into scout/security and supply elements. The light, fast moving scouts clear the way for the slower moving folks with the gear. Use travois, hand carts, wagons, beasts of burden or vehicles to carry heavy loads instead of your back. Otherwise you will arrive too tired to fight. Rely on supply caches with relatives, friends, friendlies or stashed in the bush for sustainment.
- Stay Alert
- Do Not Rush
- Do Not Carry Too Much Weight
- Do Not Travel Too Far, Too Fast
You do not necessarily need a ton of equipment to rig booby traps. Most of the materials you need can be acquired from your environment and your enemy. I am not a big fan of carrying more equipment than necessary, but there are a few, mostly multipurpose essentials that are good to have on hand:
- Trip Line: Use camouflaged wire or low-stretch, hi-strength cordage. Most fishing line really doesn’t work that great, but some of the stronger braided lines in subdued, non-reflective colors can be made to work. You can use this for so many things.
- Flat Spray Paint: Kill shine with a non-reflective base coat that matches your environment. Not something to carry in your pack as much as to knock down shine to prepare equipment unless you know you’ll be trapping, but even then, fresh paint has poor scent discipline.
- EOD Multi-tool: Again, very multi-use and full of useful tools including a cap crimper if you might be doing any of that. Many of these come with a non-ferrous probe kit.
- Hardware: Eye screws, long wood or drywall screws, S-hooks, long nails should be painted flat. They are useful to anchor traps and wires and change the direction of wire.
- 1” Tape: I carry .75” vinyl tape and duct tape or 100mph tape in subdued colors which is extremely multi-use.
- Small EOD Grapnel: A grapnel or the ability to improvise one is used to probe, clear or detonate suspicious objects or wires at a distance and from behind cover, but I would recommend most survivalists flag any suspicious finds and avoid them. If you do decide to trip a trap, don’t forget your hearing protection. Also handy as a weight for hanging bear bags, but you can do that with rocks in a handkerchief which is lighter as long as you acquire the rocks on site as opposed to carrying them with you.
- Telescopic Lighted Inspection Mirror: These are good for up close inspection from behind cover and minimize your chances of tripping a trap. Magnified mirrors help close up, but non-magnified ones pull double duty allowing you to take a peak from behind cover before you turn a corner or make covert entry in a building. Everyone loves to practice dynamic entry, but covert entry tactics are every bit as important for survivalists.
- Light: You need good light to see what you are doing and have any chance of spotting trip wires and spore.
- Grenade Pin or Cotter Pin: If you find a booby trap in place before it is tripped, freeze and warn the rest of your group. Carefully backing out the way you came in (in reverse order) stepping in your tracks is usually your best move. But if you use any munitions with Bouchon fuzes or think you might someday, you might have to safe one. So, you might as well stick a grenade pin in you web gear next time you train. They do not take up much space and if you ever need one, you will really need it. If you do not have one, bend a bobby pin. You should keep a few in your personal survival/recovery kit.
- Apparatus/Ordnance: Any manufactured elements you need to make the booby trap.
- Ear Plugs: You likely carry these already if you shoot much, but working with high explosive ordnance is unimaginably loud and at close proximity it will damage your hearing permanently … even through both plugs and over-ear hearing protection worn simultaneously.
1. 12ga Trip Trap
Inexpensive and reliable, the idea behind this design is to detonate a 12ga. blank round or flare to alert sentries of intruders, but a little ingenuity and they can easily modified to fire OC rounds, less-lethal impact rounds or even full-house lethal 12 gauge rounds. If you do not know how, you probably should not learn it form an article. If you do, then you do. Placement is key.
2. “Frag In A Can”
In this booby trap, a munition (sometimes more than one) is stuffed in a can to depress the spoon and prevent it from opening far enough to allow the spring-powered striker in the fuze to strike a primer which starts the fuze burning. A tripwire is attached and the safety pin removed. When the wire is disturbed, the munition is pulled from the can, the spoon flies off and the munition goes off. Simple and effective when properly and creatively rigged.
This trap does not have to incorporate a fragmentation munition. Any munition with a Bouchon type fuze will work, but the shorter the delay of the fuze, the better for this application so the M201A1 one second fuzes are good if you have a choice. If you are experienced with these fuzes, you can remove the delay element. You might be thinking “where am I ever going to get one?” In any kind of major disruption, they will come out of the woodwork.
When societies break down, magazines and armories not already cleaned out get looted and munitions and weapons end up in the streets after everyone goes home to take care of their families or are deployed to other areas. In some cases, munitions may repurposed from deceased or captured soldiers, law enforcement officers or anybody who got their hands on them. There are also some pull-fused smoke “grenades” marketed for paintball and Airsoft that can be rigged to work just fine. Scratch fused smoke signals can be used or pyro scratch fuses can also be repurposed.
3. Punji Pit
Essentially a pit trap with the addition of barbed stakes to impale who or whatever blunders into it. Human excrement is sometimes applied to the stakes to promote infection, but could potentially compromise the booby trap due the odor.
4. Fish Hooks
A favorite of narco-criminals protecting drug grows, large treble fishhooks suspended from vegetation by tough, camouflaged line are difficult to spot when well placed. They often dip them in poisons or fecal matter to cause infection. While not immediately lethal, they slow movement and are especially nasty at eye level. Speedhook snares & Mechanical Fisher “yo-yo’s” guarantee a set hook.
5. Rattle Cans
Cans filled with rocks can be suspended with wire so they bounce, are be rigged to make a racket. A stick is often rigged as a flipper, mounted in a few strands of para-cord. The stick is twisted and attached to a trigger and a sere, so when triggered, the stick spins around and beats against a can containing a few pebbles. A little experimentation will give you the noisiest possible rig.
6. Cartridge Trap
In this booby trap, a cartridge is placed in a pit trap with the primer resting on a nail or tack. Better models support the walls of the casing with a short piece of thick-walled pipe of a diameter such that the walls of the cartridge or shot shell casing are supported. Pressure of a footfall pushes the cartridge down onto the tack which fires the cartridge into the foot. It is best to support the firing pin with a board. Elegantly simple, this one.
7. Electronic Booby Traps
A variety of ever-less expensive solutions are available for radio-enabled alarm system components on the high end down to trip-ware actuated alarms with strobes and sirens and simple motion detector lights and sirens on the low end. These can easily be set up as alarms for homes, retreats or camps.
The military now has some amazing programmable booby-traps armed with a terrific suite of sensors, communications and weaponry. They can be networked and remotely armed and disarmed. Why these are not deployed along our borders to aid border patrol is absolutely beyond me.
Top 22 Handguns For Your Defense
In a time of crisis almost everyone will be armed regardless of what the government tries to do about it. Having and knowing how to use personal defensive handguns will make survival possible for you and your family.
The following five sections should be considered by all preppers no matter what their training or experience levels are.
- What Would Be the Best Firearm to Carry?
- Can you shoot and kill if you must? If you are not honest with yourself and buy a handgun anyway and then freeze when it is needed the most, you and your family may pay a terrible price.
- Before buying any handgun, define your intended purpose and use for the weapon. The next step is to research different handguns that meet your needs. If possible, handle and test fire those handguns that you are considering buying at local ranges that rents firearms or shoot with the same model firearms that belong to friends. When your mind is made up and you are satisfied with your choice, buy the handgun.
- The best firearm to carry is one that fits your hands comfortably. Your hand should fit the pistol grip so that all fingers will grip the firearm without any fingers hanging in space. If the handgun you truly need and want does not fit your hand properly because the grip is too small, after market magazines that have a finger rest on them can help to solve this problem. Also the shooter’s fingers must be able to safely and easily operate the safety or the slide release.
- Can you point quickly and naturally when pointing at the target? The handgun should be well balanced and hold on target with ease. If the barrel is too heavy this can make the gun point and shoot low. On the other hand if the barrel is to light, there is a tendency for the barrel to rise a little bit which could cause the gun to point and shoot high.
- The ammunition caliber of the handgun is very important. Too small of a caliber and the stopping power may not be strong enough to stop and end the confrontation. Many more shots may be needed than you have time to fire off. If necessary, work your way up to larger caliber guns that have the stopping power required to quickly end the confrontation with just one or two shots fired.
- The best caliber for a revolver would be a 38 Special or larger with the upper end at the .357 magnum. Anything smaller would not have the stopping power needed to end a confrontation.
- The best caliber for a pistol would either be a 9MM, 40 Caliber, or a 45 ACP. Each of these calibers have enough stopping power to stop any confrontation with the least number of shots fired. It must be remembered that most US police forces use either 9MM, 40 Caliber, or 45ACP in their department issued sidearms. The US Military or UN Peace Keeping Troops carry 9MM or 45 ACP as their issued sidearms depending if the troops are regular troops or special operation troops needed to take care of “Special Problems”.
- Anything smaller than the 9MM like the 380 ACP, 32 ACP, 25 ACP, or the 22 Caliber would be a poor choice of pistol calibers. They are too light and do not have enough stopping power. These calibers could be used if you had nothing else to protect yourself with and you can also train with them. They are better than nothing.
- The recoil of the handgun should not be too heavy. If the recoil is too heavy it can cause the shooter to anticipate the heavy recoil causing them to flinch, close their eyes, or jerk the handgun off target.
- No matter which handgun you choose, get the best one that you can afford with the money that has been set aside from your budget. Be practical in your choices of handguns. Buy a handgun model with a long history of dependability, safety, and is user friendly.
- After you have made your preliminary choices of handguns you must compare the cost of the ammunition and availability of it. If the ammunition costs way too much or is hard to locate, consider dropping this weapon from your list.
2. Which Handguns Should a New Shooter Consider?
Is the new shooter male or female, young or old? Which handguns should they consider for their first personal defensive handgun? For shooters in this category I would be looking to see if the shooters could physically work the slide, hold up the handgun, aim it, safely work the safety, or the slide release. If not I would recommend a revolver which is much simpler to use, operate, and weighs less.
For those shooters that can safely handle and operate a pistol I would recommend the following handguns in 9MM. These pistols are well built, dependable, and should give the shooter years of good service.
- Beretta PX4 – a good compact high capacity pistol, with good balance, stopping power, and mild recoil.
- C.I.A. Canik55 TP9 – This pistol is new to the market, but tests results show this is a well-built handgun that points easily, has good balance, mild recoil, and good stopping power.
- FNH-USA-FNS – This is a well-built high capacity handgun that is rugged and very dependable. This pistol comes with 2 interchangeable backstraps for a better hand grip fit.
- Glock 19 – Is a very dependable, high capacity handgun that has stood the test of time. The Gen4 has the dual recoil spring system and 3 backstraps for better hand fit (small, medium, or large).
- Ruger SR9 – Like all of the Ruger handguns this pistol is very dependable, easy to shoot, and has mild recoil.
- Smith & Wesson M&P – An excellent starter gun for the new shooter. Comes with 3 palm sweller grip panels. This pistol is well built, dependable, and comfortable to shoot.
- Rossi R851 – This is a 38 Special 6 shot revolver that is dependable, well built, and will give you years of good service. It points well, is balanced, and the felt recoil is mild.
- Ruger GP100 – This is a very dependable revolver in .357 Mag. Which also firers the 38 Special round interchangeably. This revolver weighs in at 45 Oz., but this helps to reduce the felt recoil of the .357 Mag. round to mild.
Choices for a Trained Marksman with Small Hands
In this category I would recommend the following handguns and calibers in the 9MM, .40, or the 45 ACP. Being a trained and experienced marksman you have been through the basics and have a good idea of what you want for your personal defensive handguns.
- Beretta Px4 – is a good compact high capacity pistol that comes in three calibers the 9MM, .40, and the 45ACP. The .40 and the 45 ACP are better man stoppers than the 9MM. If you take care of this pistol it should give you years of good service.
- CZ-75 – This pistol comes in 9MM and .40 and set the standard that all other pistols of this design are judged by. It is very dependable, points well, balanced, and has very good stopping power.
- Glock 23/27 Gen4 – These are .40 pistols that have a history of getting the job done. The Gen4 has the double recoil spring system that helps to reduce recoil. These pistols also come with 3 different sized backstraps to help give the shooter a better grip on the weapon.
- Ruger SR1911 – This is a 45 ACP pistol that is made in stainless steel. The design is a classic and is known for its dependability, safety, and stopping power.
- Smith & Wesson M&P – This pistol comes in 9MM, .40, 45 ACP. The .40 and the 45 ACP are better man stoppers than the 9MM. For a better grip the M&P pistol comes with 3 palmswell grip sizes making it easier for one pistol to fit small, medium, or large hands.
- Springfield XD – This pistol comes in three calibers 9MM, .40, and 45 ACP. The .40 and the 45 ACP are better man stoppers than the 9MM. This pistol comes in 3”, 4”, and 5” barrel lengths. This is a very safe and dependable pistol. This pistol comes with a trigger safety and a grip safety.
- Ruger GP100 – This is a dependable well-built revolver that will give you years of good service in .357 Mag. or 38 Special interchangeably. The recoil is mild to heavy depending which loads are used.
- Taurus Judge – This revolver comes in two barrel lengths a 3” and a 6.5”. It shoots either 45LC (standard velocity only) or 2.5” or 3” .410 shotgun rounds interchangeably depending on the version. The recoil is heavy, but it will end any confrontation quickly.
- Choices for a Trained Marksman with Large Hands
In this category, I would recommend the following pistols in 9MM, .40, or 45 ACP.
- Beretta 92SF – This is a larger pistol for the 9MM. It is good for those shooters with larger hands. The 9MM round is used by many police and sheriff departments throughout the country. Also this pistol is the main sidearm for the US Military and NATO forces. The 92FS is very dependable and will give you years of good service if properly maintained. I also recommend this weapon since it is one I carried for over 15 Years as a police officer without malfunctions or breakdowns.
- CZ-USA P-09 Duty – This pistol comes in either 9MM or .40, with the .40 being the better of the two calibers. The .40 caliber is a heavier bullet traveling with greater velocity and has better knock down power. The P-09 Duty is a very dependable and accurate pistol.
- FNH- USA- FNS – This pistol comes in either 9MM or .40 with the .40 being the better of the two. It is a very well built pistol that is high capacity and is very dependable. The FNS comes with 2 replaceable backstraps for a better grip on the weapon. Recoil is quite manageable.
- FNH- USA- FNX45 – This is a large capacity 45 ACP which holds 15 rounds of 45 ACP. It is well built and very dependable. For a better grip it comes with 2 replaceable backstraps. The 45 ACP is quite manageable in this firearm. A good weapon for the 45 ACP enthusiast.
- Glock 23/27 Gen4 – These are .40 pistols that are known for getting the job done. These pistols come with the double recoil spring system that helps to reduce felt recoil. These pistols come with 3 different sized backstraps that give the shooter a better grip on the pistol.
- Smith & Wesson M&P – This pistol comes in 9MM, .40, and 45 ACP. The .40 and the 45 ACP are excellent man stoppers with the 9MM in third place. The M&P pistols are very dependable with high capacity magazines with a good work history. To better fit the shooters this pistol comes with 3 palm swell grip sizes (small, medium, and large) to better fit the shooter’s hand.
TOP 9 EMERGENCY ANTIBIOTICS EVERYONE
SHOULD HAVE STOCKPILED
Survival antibiotics are often overlooked by preppers. One reason is because preppers don’t know which ones to buy or even where to get them. Another reason is because they haven’t needed them before so they forget they might need them in the future. That was the reason I hadn’t stocked up on antibiotics until a long, painful week set me straight.
Last year, on an ordinary evening shortly after dinner, my stomach started bothering me. It wasn’t nausea or a normal stomach cramp. It was a strange type of gnawing pain I’d never felt before. I tried antacids and Pepto Bismol, but nothing worked. I finally took some Tylenol and went to bed. The next day the pain was still there, but now it had moved over to my lower right abdomen. And as the day continued, it got worse. And worse. Pretty soon it was so bad that I decided to go online and do some research. I thought it might be something like a torn muscle or my appendix, but nothing I found really fit my symptoms. That evening, the pain was so bad I could barely move. I had to walk hunched over and take tiny steps. Any type of sudden movement caused excruciating pain. It was so severe that my wife had to help me take my shirt off before bed. The following morning she took me to urgent care.
It was a long day. The doctor asked a lot of questions and felt my abdomen, but he wasn’t sure what it could be so he ordered blood work and a CAT scan. He thought it might be my gall bladder, in which case I would need emergency surgery. But again, he wasn’t sure if that was the problem because my symptoms just didn’t quite fit. Of course, my wife and I were both afraid it could be something life-threatening.
Eventually a radiologist looked at the scans and identified the problem: I had some type of infectious colitis in my ascending colon (similar to diverticulitis). Basically, my colon was severely inflamed by a bacterial infection. They couldn’t say exactly how it happened, but it’s possible I got it after eating some undercooked meat. That’s rare, but it can happen.
This infection could have killed me if not for the medication he prescribed. And what was this wonderful medicine that saved my life? You guessed it. Antibiotics. Specifically, Ciprofloxacin and Metronidazole. After 10 days of taking those, I was good as new! But I wondered, What if I hadn’t had access to a doctor or antibiotics when this happened? I probably would have died. See how important it is to stock up on antibiotics for survival?
Before we move on, a few disclaimers: First, I am not a doctor and I am not giving you medical advice. I’m just repeating some information I learned. I recommend you ask your doctor if he will write you some prescriptions for antibiotics so you can stock up, just in case. There are other ways you can acquire antibiotics. For example, you could buy the ones that are meant for control of common bacterial infections in fish and/or birds. I’m not saying you should consume them, I’m just pointing out how interesting it is that they’re the exact same as the ones prescribed by doctors. The picture shows a couple of examples. And please, don’t take antibiotics every time you have pain or a fever. Antibiotics are not good for you and should only be taken in an emergency. You should have a good medical book on hand to help you diagnose the problem. And then, only when you are very certain that antibiotics will help, should you take them. I also want to remind you that if you take antibiotics and develop a rash or any other reaction, you should stop taking them immediately. If there is no reaction and your condition improves, continue taking the antibiotic for two weeks, even if you feel better after a few days. Though you might feel better, you want to make sure the infection is completely eliminated.
There are a lot of antibiotics, but I’ve narrowed it down to what I think are the 9 best. These should cover almost 99% of infections. You don’t need to get every single one on this list (for example, Cephalexin, Amoxicillin, and Erythromycin are all very similar, but you might have trouble finding a couple of them).
I can’t tell you everything you need to know in one post. I suggest you look for some books on antibiotics so you’ll know what and how much to use. It’s my hope that this post will at least get you started. Here then, are the 9 Best Survival Antibiotics. I’ll begin the list with the two that helped me.
- Ciprofloxacin – Best for things like urinary tract infections, prostate infections, respiratory tract infections (such as bronchitis or pneumonia), bacterial diarrhea, anthrax, and diverticulitis or infectious colitis (when combined with Metronidazole). It should never be used by children, pregnant women or nursing mothers. (Do a web search for “Fish Flox”)
- Metronidazole – Usually used for getting rid of anaerobic bacteria which is found in the intestine. Like I said, it can treat diverticulitis or colitis if you take it with Ciprofloxacin. But it can also treat bacterial vaginosis, diabetic foot ulcer, joint or bone infections, lung or brain abscesses, meningitis, and a few other infections. This also shouldn’t be taken by children, pregnant women or nursing mothers. (This one is also sold as “Fish Zole”)
- Cephalexin – Great for almost any type of respiratory infection (bronchitis, pneumonia, strep throat, etc.) and middle ear infections. It is safe for pregnant women and children and only has a few side effects. (Do a web search for “Fish Flex”)
- Amoxicillin – This will handle most of the same types of bactiera as Cephalexin. It’s also safe for pregnant women and children and has very few side effects. However, some people are very allergic to it. In that case, you should try the next one on the list. (This is also sold as Fish Mox”)
- Erythromycin – Like the previous two, this one can also treat most respiratory infections and middle ear infections. It’s also good for Syphilis, Lyme Disease and Chlamydia. And it’s safe for women and children. So why not just forget the other two and store this instead? Because it has several potential side effects including abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.
- Doxycycline – Treats the same types of infections as Erythromycin. However, Erythromycin can be hard to find whereas this one is often sold as “Bird Biotic.” This is not labeled for human consumption. I’m just pointing it out. This one can also treat sinus infections, Typhus and Malaria. However, it should not be used by children, pregnant women or nursing mothers and there are some side effects including kidney impairment and sensitive skin. (Dixycycline is actually just a newer type of Tetracycline, also sold as “Fish Cycline”)
- SMZ-TMP – That is short for Sulfamethoxazole and Trimethoprim. Together, these can treat most respiratory infections, but they’re mainly used for urinary tract infections. But the best thing about SMZ-TMP is it can treat MRSA (Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus), also known as resistant staph. This is a strain of bacteria that spreads easily and is resistant to most antibiotics. (Do a web search for “Bird Sulfa”)
- Azitrhomycin – This one is similar to numbers 3 through 6 because it treats respiratory infections and all sorts of things like Chlamydia, Lyme Disease, PID, Syphilis, Typhoid, etc. Side effects include abdominal pain, nausea and diarrhea but that is rare. It’s a great antibiotic to have because it treats so many different things. The problem is that it’s hard to find and can be a bit expensive.
- Ampicillin – Similar to penicillin, but more effective against things like anthrax and less likely to cause an allergic reaction. Also useful for respiratory tract infections, bacterial meningitis, urinary tract infections, gastrointestinal infections and many other things. (Do a web search for “Fish Cillin”)
Don’t be caught with a life-threatening infection when it’s too dangerous to go out or after the stores have run out of antibiotics. They don’t cost much and they could save you or a loved one’s life.